#artpost - Richard Estes

I don't know much about art but I know what I like and what I don't and sometimes that's all I need to worry about as I'm strolling, hand in hand, down one of the many aisles in one of the many museums that we visit from time to time.

Last weekend we stumbled across the Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza‎ during a walk around Madrid and being a sucker for gift shops I remembered that I'd read in AD mag just how good this one was. In fact... As soon as I'd got in line with my handful of goodies I knew I was being a fool for not making us pay the small price and having a quick look around. So... We strategically placed our pile of things in a 'save for later' spot and headed for the ticket desk.

The museum is one of three in the golden triangle of art in Madrid, along with the Prado and Reina Sofia, and houses a full timeline of pieces that the latter don't. It's the second largest personal collection in the world and we saw everything from a royal portrait of Henry VIII to Picasso to Monet to Edward Hopper. 

Of everything in there, one set caught my eye and I was already desperate to see what prints they had in the shop on the way out... They were three pieces by a guy called Richard Estes, well known for his hyperrealism style and his paintings based around 1960's New York. The first picture and my favourite of the three, we managed to find a small copy in the gift shop which is currently hanging in our lounge with our NYC memorabilia sitting closely nearby...  Along with everything being so colourful and clean cut.. the paintings make you feel like you've caught New York on a Sunday morning just before the rest of the city wakes.

If you ever have the chance to visit Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza‎, do it... whether you're an art buff or not... The building itself and it's front patio are worth the wander over alone. Oh, and the gift shop of course!

#travelpost - Cartagena, Colombia

With a five hour drive from Santa Marta and a loooong hour bus journey with my backpack and small day pack on my lap on a crowded bus from the bus terminal, we arrived in Cartagena.
We got to our hostel, Papaya Getsemani, sorted our bags, had a shower and left for a wander. The hostel isn't in the old town centre, instead it's in an up and coming neighbourhood popular with backpackers, 10 minutes walk away from the main tower. I read the area used to be quite dangerous and a hotspot for crime but nowadays it's bustling with locals, backpackers and street vendors and has the perfect square for people watching. Right next to a police station!

Day one:
After getting in late from a long, hot journey we decided to have a short walk around the centre of the old town... We were immediately distracted by arepas con queso! The man persuaded me to try it with a fluorescent pineapple sauce and it was actually really good; we've seen the same arepa man now about 4 times in the old town with his little cart... He gives us a nod and a big smile. On our wander we spotted a super cute bookshop/coffee shop piled high with stacks of books, we had a peek in the window and told ourselves we'd come back tomorrow but tomorrow came and we tried to find it again to which we failed miserably.

That night we hung around the main square near our hostel, people watched, caught a wedding and fireworks, had some beers on the steps and ate something called plata con todo...TODO. It was intense. I'm pretty sure I didn't actually like it and kept eating anyway but Harry says it would be the perfect drunk food. Feast your eyes on this....

Day two:

On day two we hit the town again with our walking trainers on and cameras ready... 10 minutes out of the door and we were already walking like snails because of the heat. I think I said I was hot every three minutes, Harry stopped responding after ten.

Within the first half an hour we'd already hit up an ice lolly shop that we'd read about and soaked up the air con for as long as possible before it was obvious what we were actually there for. We walked some more, looked in a few shops and sat in some squares and ended up in a little old restaurant crammed with people for lunch... 8000 cops for two courses and a drink. Cheap and old school. On the walk home we stumbled upon Portal de Los Dulces, a tunnel in the made square full of sugared sweets, we got some coconut sweets to take away.

After a long siesta and FaceTime catch ups we headed to the popular La Cevicheria for dinner (another Bourdain spesh!). We got there just in time, as we grabbed a table a whole load of people flooded the place... Some were still waiting when we'd finished. I ordered shrimp ceviche and Harry had a fish, squid and snails with a coconut milk based sauce, it was so so good! After we headed back to our local square for even more people watching and cervezas.

Day three:
I'll keep it short and sweet... We had a lazy morns with a freebie breakfast and some internet time (doing those rounds) and finally found our bookshop/coffee shop. *applause emoji* . We had lunch at a cute little cafe and did a crossword.... We were two words short!!! Ben and Sinead you would have been proud! In the bookshop earlier we found a cool magazine that had the top five views of the city and we found that a chain called Crepes and Waffles had a balling venue in Cartagena so we went there for a crepe that we probably didn't need but a rooftop spot that we definitely did. The Museum of Modern Art followed and then home time for an afternoon nap.

#travelpost - Santa Marta

We almost skipped over Santa Marta as it's most commonly known for being one of the uglier cities on the Carribbean Coast used only as a route to the havens that surround it but for two nights, we're glad we didn't.

Most travellers head straight to Taganga, the neighbouring hippy beach used mostly for parties, diving or both, and most Colombians head to the opposite much wealthier end, filled with hotels and yachts. For us, we stayed in the centre in the sister hostel to our Bogotá place, Masaya Santa Marta, just five minutes from the beach and surrounded by food stalls and markets. When I read about Santa Marta on blogs before we came I read time and time again that Santa Marta had lost it's charm and was a crumbling town... The crumbling was about right but I think it has some charm left up it's sleeve. Don't forget, it is the oldest remaining colonial city in Colombia and is said to be the place where Simon Bolivar, the leader of the Latin America’s independence from Spain, took his final breath.

We spent two nights here and we'd watched the best sunset we'd ever seen , help to collectively drink 5 bottles of aguardiente with strangers turned friends, ate great food for surprisingly cheap prices and soaked up the Carribbean heat in our rooftop pool that cost us just £8 a night. And don't forget, I finally bought a mochila... The dreamiest set of bags you'll ever see on a market stall. Por fin!

I can see why people would assume Santa Marta doesn't deserve a stop over when you use hearsay as your guide as people looking for parties and booze filled nights probably wouldn't make the most of what the old town has to offer but if you keep an open mind and give it a chance, you'll be pleasantly surprised just like us.

#travelpost - Bogotá, Colombia

We made it

A 20 minute drive through town took us to our first hostel of the trip, Masaya Bogotá, tucked away on a hilly street in La Candelaria neighbourhood of Bogotá. I think we did ourselves proud with this one and I'm sure we'll stay in a lot worse.

Day 1:

First stop on our first afternoon was coffee of course and food. Our route took us through Plaza de Bolivar, a huge square filled with a lifetime supply of pigeons named after the political leader Simón Bolívar. Harry tried his first (of probably many) bowl of ajiaco, a soup made up of chicken and sweet corn served with rice, arepas, plantain and capers. I had chorizo with arepas and a side of avocado plus beers... This didn't even cost us 2.50 each....I don't think we'll have a problem with our budget after all. *dancing lady emoji*

Day 2:

It was predicted rain and storms for today but the morning started sunny with a breakfast of tamales and eggs at La Puerta Falsa thank you Anthony Bourdain for showing us the way to this hole in the wall in a 350 year old colonial building. For the rest of the morning we headed over to Museo Botero for a wander and sit in the patio and then back to the hostel for a quick coffee and sit down.

At midday we decided to head up to Monserrate, a mountain that dominates the skyline over the capital, via cable car and a steep one at that. At the top we had a wander around the gardens and the church that overlooks Bogotá and finished it off with a quick coffee with one of the best views I've ever seen. The view of the rolling clouds hanging over the mountains were close to giving the city view a run for it's money! A quick stop at the usually quite pricey Bogota Beer Company to catch happy hour £1.20 a pint and we were good to head back for a rest stop before dinner in La Macarena neighbourhood.

 

Day 3:

On Saturday, our last full day, we started the morning a little later with a lazy walk for arepas. We found a cute little place in La Candelaria filled with stacks and stacks of fresh bread and decided to order a huge cup of chocolate and arepas con queso. It was delicious! We even bought a cheesy loaf to save for lunchtime. The lazy day continued with a walk to the supermarket to buy our sandwich fillings and whatnots and then back to the hostel for a chat and coffee. The rest of our Saturday was filled with a walk around our neighbourhood and yes, another coffee.